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Here's an index to the places I'll be visiting. I've been able to provide some background information, and that's provided here. Check the Sunset Journal and the Dispatches (use the navigation bar above), to experience the live journey.
The Route Here's an introduction to the area, the route and the themes of this trip. Why the South? All travelers follow two
paths, a physical path and a spiritual path. The Indian Sunset dispatches
tells the story of both, because, after all, doesn't the physical
path begin with the spiritual? (Or is that the egg before the chicken?)
Here's how it goes: Something draws you to a certain place. A fascination
with a language, an affinity with a religion, your ancestry, a loved
one, great beaches or mountains promising a much-needed rest or
a much-needed challenge. Whatever it is, you act upon it. You buy
a guidebook, then a map. You check weather charts and train schedules.
You clear some time from your calendar. Buy a ticket (maybe it's
open-ended), and you arrive. Everything is so confusing, this new
language and culture, this new state of being. But you have your
map and your train schedules, your rent-a-car or bicycle or scooter,
so you go, thus armed into this new world, buying bottled water
and peeling your vegetables, doling out money to beggars and wearing
a skirt that covers your knees -- all the things you have been advised
to do as you move through this strange place.
Lonely Planet's South India
says that Tamil Nadu is "synonymous
with temples" and it follows that it is the most pilgrimed
area in the world, surpassing even Mecca and the Wall of Jerusalem.
Surprised? Well, just think of the sheer numbers of India's population,
and consider that nearly all of them go on pilgrimage at least once
in their lives. Tamil Nadu is where they come. Order Lonely Planet's South India now. Or browse the recommended books section.
I found this a surprising
fact: Tamil is among the four oldest languages in the world (the
others are Greek, Latin, and Sanskrit), and the 2000-year-old Thirukkural - a Tamil book
on philosophy and life in general - which, after the bible, has
been translated into the most number of languages of any book in
the world. It was written by Thiruvalluvar, a sage and philosopher,
about 2000 years ago. It is said to be one of the greatest and most
succinct books ever written, by popular and critical opinion. Tamil is the language spoken by tamilians, inhabitants of Tamil Nadu. The legend is that the founder of the language Sage Agasthiya came down to Earth to spread this beautiful language on the request of Lord Shiva. He wrote first Tamil grammar book, Agathiyam, the first grammar book written for any language in the world. Unfortunately, no copy of this book is known to exist today. The version written by Agasthiya's disciple, Tholkaapiyar, nearly 5000 years ago, still exists, and is accepted as the oldest grammar book in any language. This book is called Tholkaapiyam, after its author.
It is thought that human activity began here over 300,000 years ago. By 1200 BC the Dravidians were creating huge stone monuments and sculptures, some of which still stand. It wasn't until 1640 that a big foreign power came to influence life here - the British. They made Chennai their trading post and called it Madras. There were also pockets of French, Danish, and Dutch domination. Then, in 1947 India regained its independence. More can be found at the History of India site.
A kolam or rangoli is a rice-flour design put on the thresholds of homes in Tamil Nadu for decoration and to convey messages about the household.
The Hindu religion and
mythology story rivals those of
today's pulp fiction, rife as it is with sex, violence, drugs, jealousy,
tricks on mortals, contests amongst the gods, and consequences of
universe-shattering proportions. The stories have evolved, as stories
do, and there are many different interpretations and accounts of
the same event: for instance, the story of how the god Ganesha came
to have the head of an elephant. My favorite stories so far have
been supplied in a book called Ka, the Hindu myth of creation as
told by an Italian poet. I highly recommend it.
GUIDEBOOKS AND MAPS
THE RHYTHM OF
INDIA
The Royal Enfield Bullet,
an Indian institution.
The temple area around Maduri
Also in January is the four-day Pongol festival, a festival of thanks giving for the abundant harvest. I hope to experience this festival in a small village where, they say, the spirit of the festival is most apparent.
For more information on this and other festivals in India while I'm traveling please visit the festival information page. My travels in Tamil Nadu
will be structured by my travels between the the temples of the
Five Elements (the Pancha Bhoota Stalams) which are, from north to
south: BACK TO HOME |
The more I studied
India the more I became convinced to concentrate my travels in the
south. Besides, the north is well-traveled by tourists, and though
I will see the Taj Mahal and the famed city of 
