Stay tuned here for updates. I'll link to dispatches as they are written. Meantime, for micro-updates, follow me on twitter. Oh, and I'm posting my favorite photos here.
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May 15, 2009
Vienna to Linz |
Arrival in Vienna (and train to Linz where I pick up the Ural Gear Up from Hari) |
May 16, 2009
Linz to the countryside west of Salzburg |
Packing up and heading out. Getting the toe-in right (twice) and being left alone on the side of the road. Landing in some lovely territory, though. |
May 17, 2009
Onken to Zernez: The Alps, from East to West |
A 12 hour day of OhMyGod! moments every five minutes in the Austrian, Swiss, and Italian Alps. Okay, you MUST motorcycle the Alps. That's all there is to it. |
May 18, 2009
Zernez to Mandello del Lario (Lake Como) |
From Zernez at the western foot of the Swiss National Park, Switzerland’s biggest nature preserve. Riding from there to St. Moritz to Lake Como I experience snow, rain, wind, clouds, sun, cold, and heat before reaching my friends in Mandello del Lario. |
May 19, 2009
Mandello del Lario (Lake Como) to Cagnes sur Mer (South of France) |
The highway to Genova, not so romantic, but summitting that last peak to get the first view of the Med. My internal navigation led me to my former stomping grounds, Cagnes sur Mer, which was the starting off point for a lot of the trips I wrote about in my bicycle travel book, Cycling the French Riviera. Camped at the foot of the ancient village, and met a great British couple here for a few days to get warm. |
May 20, 2009
Cagnes sur Mer (South of France) to the Pyrenees (France/Spain) |
Mostly freeway to get to where I've never been before, turning off in the evening onto a small road toward a snow-capped mountain where I found a nice campground run by a Dutchman, populated by retired northern Europeans. We'd call them "Snow Birds" in the USA -- you know, the peope in RVs in Florida in the wintertime. |
May 21, 2009
The Pyrenees (Le Rotja) to Puigcerda (Spain) |
I woke up with a view of Andorra, visited a medieval city, took the waters at a hotsprings, and headed up a steep steep mountain. Hey, what would one of my motorcycle trips be without a little engine drama? Problem solved in one day, though, this time. At my hotel, a Catalian was trying to talk to me, but I couldn't really understand. I thought there was something wrong with his eye though, until he wrote his room number on a napkin. |
May 22, 2009
Puigcerda to L'Ampolia (Spain) |
Just motored down the highway today - with a detour to some hill villages west of Barcelona - to the coast to see Gunter and Ursula, who are fixing me up to go to Morocco. They just got back, so are passing on tips for riding and taking care of the bike, and where NOT to go... |
May 23, 2009
L'Ampolia to Penscasoca, Spain |
Riding south along the coast to Valencia, then west to the Sierra de Alcaraz where I find a nice spot to camp. |
May 24, 2009
Penscasoca, Spain |
A rest day and a hike in a great campground. Small towns and great trails and roads to explore. Feels great to stretch my legs. |
May 25, 2009
La Vinuela, Spain |
The ride from Penscasoca and the mountains there, into Andelusia, toward the Mediterranean coast through millions of acres of olive trees. |
May 26, 2009
Across the Straits of Gibraltar to Tangiers, Morocco |
The crossing from Algeceris to Tangiers and into the city, a little stressful, but wow, it really could have been worse. And now, I'm in Africa! Night comes, and the city is alive. |
May 27, 2009
A Day in Tangiers, Morocco |
Tangiers is Africa on the sea, a city of hills like San Francisco, multi-lingual (English, French, Spanish, and Arabic, of course). There are winding streets and covered markets, narrow alleyways, lively conversations, spices and fabrics in vibrant colors, fruits and steaming pots of things, and tourists wearing inappropriate clothing guided by know-it-alls who keep them out of the best places. It's a great place to be alone, wander, and discover. |
May 28, 2009
Morning in Tangiers, Morocco |
This morning the gusts were 92kph so I decided to stay another day. Went to have coffee and found the Rif Mountain people selling produce and dairy. Colorful! Now packing up, because the wind has stopped. Riding the west coast, then inland to Fez. |
May 29, 2009
A night in Fez |
Fez is likely the most interesting city I've ever visited. Beautifully graceful, defined by its walls and gardens, it has a laid back atmosphere that belies the behive of activity here. |
May 30, 2009
Fez to Midelt |
A German motorcycle tourist, baboons, a cedar forest, Japanese tourists, geode touts, an electrical snow and ice storm, and rest. |
May 31, 2009
Midelt to the Sahara |
A mountain or two, and then it gets flat. Then off-roading it 15 km to a kasbah in the desert where I get a big room, a pool, and a view of the dunes. |
June 1, 2009
The Sahara |
The kasbah is peaceful. Waking at 5:30 am, with the light, I walk out into the dunes, and find myself alone. |
June 2, 2009
The Sahara to the Gorges |
It was great to get out of the Sahara desert heat and into the cool of the gorges and the oasis! |
June 3, 2009
The Gorges to the foot of the Atlas |
I stayed at Biker's Home, a luxurious little oasis of Euro-African culture, with a well stocked garage and refrigerator. |
June 4, 2009
Through the Atlas to Marrakesh |
The Atlas Mountain ride to Marrakesh is on the beaten path but that doesn't keep it from being a stellar ride. And my destination is absolutely over the top! |
June 9, 2009
A tour of the farm villages in Marrakesh. |
Moustafa, head of staff here at the Dar Surya villa, takes me, Lisa, and Catherine on a little motorcycle tour of his family's villages and the nearby farms. It's great to meet locals and experience their extremely generous hospitality. |
June 18, 2009
The ride home. |
Headed out for a fast ride from Marrakesh to Tangier to take the ferry to Tarifa, Spain. Then rode through Spain, France, Italy, and a slice of Germany to Austria, where I returned the Ural and flew back to San Francisco. I'm tired! But I will post photos and stories as soon as I can. Thanks for following the adventure! |
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