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Check here for shopping tips and advice as the trip progresses. January 16, Mamallapurum, Tamil Nadu Clothing Many things on my packing list were mistakes. The black cotton pants I so carefully chose for their color (hides grease and dirt), roominess (for modesty), and durability, are too hot to wear once off the bike. It's the cool season (as opposed to hot and dry and warm and rainy), but the term "cool" is relative here at the equator. Here in Mamallapuram I chose some fabric and had an Indian-style pants and tunic made. The cotton is mustard yellow with an animal print, slightly crinkled, and light as can be. It folds into nothing and is comfortable, light and airy, and since I donned it I've noticed a marked increase in respect by locals. Too many foreigners here in Mamallapuram walk around in short shorts and tank tops and halter dresses. The people who live there have become used to it, I have been told by several shopkeepers, but the problem comes when Indian tourists arrive, and see all this exposed flesh. I'm uncertain as to the reason why anyone would walk around like that in a culture accustomed to discretion. I don't think it's a sexist thing. My theory is that in these hot countries people dress to keep the heat off their skin. The result is that nobody sees any skin. So when they see skin they become either affronted, titillated, or shocked. At any rate, for many reasons, I recommend this method I've stumbled upon, of bringing nothing and having clothing made if you come here. I chose some very fine and expensive fabric, so my total cost was 500 rupees. A sheer, long scarf (that keeps my neck and/or hair covered as I like, or just accessories, nicely fluttering in the breeze as it does) cost 68 rupees. In the south the women wear flowers in their hair, and why not, for a few rupees. Besides, it's Pongol, and even the cows are dressed up. My black skirt was wonderful for Delhi but completely inappropriate for the South. Black is the color of death and the devil here, and they don't use it very much. It is extremely tropical and the women wear very bright saris. Black, as in other countries, is for mourning. Synthetic underwear was the biggest mistake. I should have brought all cotton, and will throw them all away as soon as I find a shop. In the meantime I'm wearing my short yoga leotard under everything. Souvenirs Mamallapurum is known for its rock and sculptors and artists flock here from all over the world to learn traditional Indian sculpting techniques. All through the town you hear their tink tinking of these men (invariably) creating art very large and very small. There are 10 foot high statues of Shiva, tiny Ganeshas, and all of the other Hindu gods in all of their incarnations. The quality and intricacy varies, as does the rock itself. Some are made from marble, other granite. The color ranges from white to gray to serpentine green. Besides the obvious Hindu gods there are sculptures of animals -- elephants, cobras, tigers -- and balls of rock encrypted with religious symbols, marijuana leaves, and others designed to attract the hippie tourists that frequent this place. These latter are smaller and of lesser quality. I bought several pieces. Bargaining was difficult, but necessary. Who has the heart to offer $10 to an artist for an entire week's work? But bargaining is expected, and that is about what I paid for each of these pieces. Necessities Toilet paper, little packets of laundry soap, mosquito coils, batteries and film are all available at the little shops. Most everything is labeled in English, but I nearly bought three packets of tobacco instead of laundry soap because it wasn't apparent which was which (to me). All is very cheap. Postage Sending these rock objects home (because I don't want to carry them on the bike the whole time) turns out to be about the price I paid for the objects themselves. So I have opted to send them to Goa instead, and put them in my baggage from there.
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